No coldsetting or second passes needed on this frame! The numbers for the front triangle are below my 1mm cutoff and as you can see from the pictures. The seat tube was damn close to perfect.
These checks have become more and more about just evaluating my process than anything else. A test to see how I’m doing.
In all honesty, i can’t tell the difference in a frame that’s 1mm off vs. one that is 2mm off. I am riding a mountain bike with 1mm of head tube twist right now and I cannot tell when I take my hands off the bars or in how it tracks. There are so many other things that come into play, especially on a fatter tired bike.
Anyways, i was pretty psyched to ream/face the BB and load it up on the alignment plate and see how my new welding sequence did! I’m sold on the Anvil way. The biggest thing in my mind is to get dead-on tacks in the fixture to keep it aligned when you take it out to weld. Whether the locations be 10/2 & 6, 10/2/5/7 or just 12/6 like I did for this frame…they need to be equally spaced and the same size.
The rear axle spacing was a bit skewed to the driveside too. Hmm, what’s the trend here? Not sure why its pulling to the drive side.
The BB has also been harder to ream the threads on the driveside for each of my frames!…weird. Anyways, the photos show, i was almost 2mm on one side and about the same on the other. The Wetmore alignment gauge is invaluable for this…best $25 i’ve spent.