Pricing and Ordering:
I do things a little differently than many builders in that YOU are part of almost every decision in the frame, *if you want to be.* I will happily build from scratch without input but most come to me because i like to offer a complete custom experience. I’m not a painter, but a framebuilder that recognizes everyone has a different idea of what a custom bike should look and ride like. If you didn’t, why not just go with a stock bike for cheaper? So if this business model appeals to you, you’re in the right place. Email me at email@example.com to get things started.
All frames start at $1900. Current waitlist is 3-4 months
– TIG-welded Steel hardtail with custom geometry.
– S-bend seatstays and chainstays.
– Any style and size head tube desired (1″, 1-1/8″, 44mm, tapered)
– Your choice of braze-ons for racks, fenders, # and placement of water bottles, etc.
– One-color powdercoat with clearcoat
– Your choice of dropouts. Sliding and Rocker dropouts cost extra.
$500 deposit to set your spot in the queue.
“Sleeved” Yo-Eddy style (segmented) MTB or Cross Fork = $500
Yo-Eddy style segmented fork = $450
“Sleeved” unicrown fatbike or plus fork with tapered steerer = $550
Bent Top Tube = $100
Whether it’s for aesthetic reasons, to gain tire clearance, or additional standover height, bent tubes can be practical and make the bike look cool. I will use True Temper butted or aircraft grade 4130 tubing depending on the bike and rider.
Radiused wishbone seatstay = $150
If you like the look of the continuous arc from headtube to rear dropout, this is how I do it. For photos check out my Flickr or the Gallery.
Internal cable routing = $100 per cable
Internal cable routing makes for a very clean looking bike with no rattling cables or housing against the frame. It’s no different in weather protection than running full cables front to rear but let’s face it, it’s cool. I like to run full housing through the main triangle on my own frames. But if you’re highly gram-conscious this isn’t for you. (It adds approimately 50grams per cable.) I charge extra because it takes a lot longer to fabricate and has additional material cost.
Elevated Chainstays = $200
Paragon Machine Works non-adjustable dropouts (except the Poly-drop) – included in price of frame. This includes Low-Mounts, Wright/Hooded/Breezer style, etc.
Paragon (hooded) Sliders with one set of inserts = add $125
Paragon (tabbed) Sliders with one set of inserts = add $75
Paragon Rockers, with one set of inserts = add $75
Paragon Poly-Drops w/one set of inserts = add $75Note: If you would like me to use another brand of dropout I will allocate $50 towards their purchase and you will have to pay the rest — so if they cost $75, I will just add $25 to your invoice.
Small parts / Braze-ons:Too many options to list, but I’m open to putting on 3+ water bottle mounts, Salsa Anything Racks, front/rear pannier rack mounts, bottle openers, chain pegs, etc. Braze-ons can make a frame truly custom and personalized. Most options included in base price. But a few big ones that aren’t:S&S Couplers = $600Tube splitter for belt-drive = $100Powdercoat / Paint:Included in frame price is a one-color powdercoat with clear coat and frame decals. If you want a special multi-color paint job we can work with any number of professional bike painters to get the look you want.Want a full bike?
I can build you a complete bike, please ask for details on options and prices. So many options, I want you to choose what you want on your bike instead of providing packages.
Tubing. Very dependent on frame type, customer riding style. I try to use US made tubing from True Temper and but I frequently use Columbus and Reynolds for Cross, Gravel, and Road frames. Forks and wishbone stays typically are straight gauge aircraft grade 4130 chromoly tubing. The type of tubing (OX Platnium, Verus, Supertherm, straight gauge 4130) and tubing specifications (tube diameter, wall-thickness, and butt-profile) will be selected for the particular use of the frame, rider weight and body dimensions, the aggressiveness of the rider, as well as the look of the frame.
Joining Method. I TIG-weld the majority of my frames and forks. However, I do fillet braze rear plate or tab style dropouts on some frames. I use the method that I believe has the most functional application for a given frame and its parts, but also adds a bit of an aesthetic touch to the final product.
Rigid Forks. I build ‘sleeved’ or non-sleeved segmented forks (Yo Eddy-style) for any size tire – Fatbike, 29-Plus, 27.5, whatever. I also build custom lugged cyclocross or All-Rounder/Monstercross style forks, and lugged crown cyclocross forks.
Paint/Powdercoat. Choose a single solid frame color, or if you would like a custom swanky powdercoat I can send it to the masters at Spectrum (for an additional cost). If you would like custom wet-paint I’ll work with you to find a painter. I believe Powdercoating offers the best protection for off-road frames at a reasonable price so I prefer that method on my mountain and cross bikes. Each frame will come coated internally with Frame Saver to reduce the chance of rust.
Warranty. Lifetime warranty for the original purchaser: I guarantee my craftsmanship and will fix any issue resulting from my work free of charge. I do not warranty issues resulting from parts that were put on a bike that weren’t meant for the bike as designed, or that cause abnormal wear and tear. For example, if you were to put a 150mm travel suspension fork on a frame built to only accept a 100mm suspension fork I would not warranty the frame if it broke. I may be convinced to repair the frame for $50/hr. But know that I will work with you to fix any issues that arise. Warranties will be on a case-by-case basis and I will do my best to be as up front and fair — as I’d expect if I were in your position.
As you can hopefully see, I intend to mold form and function and create the best custom frames I can so that you will have something that you are proud to ride, tour, shoulder, carry, and explore with for as long as you choose.