Pricing & Options

You are part of most every decision in the frame, if you want to be.  I can build from scratch without input but most come to me because i offer a complete custom experience.  I’m a framebuilder that recognizes everyone has a different idea of what a custom bike should look and ride like. If you didn’t, you wouldn’t be here. So if this appeals to you you’re in the right place. Email me at to get things started. If you prefer calling the number is (530) 492-0580

Steel frames start at $2000. Current waitlist is 3 months (updated 10/20/19)

  • TIG-welded hardtail with custom geometry.
  •  S-bend seatstays and chainstays.
  • Any style and size head tube desired (1″, 1-1/8″, 44mm, or Tapered)
  • Your choice of braze-ons for racks, fenders, # and placement of water bottles, etc.
  • One-color powdercoat with clearcoat (paint costs more)
  • Your choice of dropouts. Sliding and Rocker dropouts cost extra.
  • $500 deposit to set your spot in the queue.

Titanium frames start at $3000

  • TIG-welded Titanium hardtail with custom geometry.
  • S-bend seatstays and chainstays.
  • Any style and size head tube desired (1-1/8″, 44mm, or Tapered)
  • Your choice of braze-ons for racks, fenders, # and placement of water bottles, etc.
  • Brushed finish with vinyl decals and bronze headbadge.
  • Your choice of non-adjustable dropouts. Sliding and Rocker dropouts cost extra.
  • $1000 deposit to set your spot in the queue.

FORKS – (steel)

“Sleeved” Yo-Eddy style (segmented) MTB or Cross Fork =  $500

Yo-Eddy style segmented fork = $450

“Sleeved” unicrown fatbike or plus fork with tapered steerer = $550

Steel (31.8 clamp, 28.6 steerer clamp) = $150
Titanium (same) = $300


Bent Top Tube = $100

Whether it’s for aesthetic reasons, to gain tire clearance, or additional standover height, bent tubes can be practical and make the bike look cool. I will use True Temper butted or aircraft grade 4130 tubing depending on the bike and rider.

Radiused wishbone seatstay = $150

If you like the look of the continuous arc from headtube to rear dropout, this is how I do it.  For photos check out my Flickr or the Gallery.

Internal cable routing = $100 per cable

Internal cable routing makes for a very clean looking bike with no rattling cables or housing against the frame. It’s no different in weather protection than running full cables front to rear but let’s face it, it’s cool.  I like to run full housing through the main triangle on my own frames.  But if you’re highly gram-conscious this isn’t for you. (It adds approimately 50grams per cable.) I charge extra because it takes a lot longer to fabricate and has additional material cost.

Elevated Chainstays $250


Paragon Machine Works non-adjustable dropouts (except the Poly-drop) – included in price of frame.  This includes Low-Mounts, Wright/Hooded/Breezer style, etc.

Paragon (hooded) Sliders with one set of inserts = add $125

Paragon (tabbed) Sliders with one set of inserts = add $75

Paragon Rockers, with one set of inserts = add $75

Paragon Poly-Drops w/one set of inserts = add $75

Small parts / Braze-ons = Too many options to list, but 3+ water bottle mounts are normal, Salsa Anything Racks, front/rear pannier rack mounts, bottle openers, chain pegs, etc.  Braze-ons can make a frame truly custom and personalized.  Most options included in base price. But a few big ones that aren’t:

S&S Couplers = $600

Tube splitter for belt-drive = $100

Want a full bike? I can build you a complete bike, please ask for details on options and prices. So many options, I want you to choose what you want on your bike instead of providing packages.

Tubing = Very dependent on frame type, customer riding style. I try to use US made tubing from True Temper and but I frequently use Columbus and Reynolds for Cross, Gravel, and Road frames.  Forks and wishbone stays typically are straight gauge aircraft grade 4130 chromoly tubing.  The type of tubing (OX Platnium, Verus, Supertherm, straight gauge 4130) and tubing specifications (tube diameter, wall-thickness, and butt-profile) will be selected for the particular use of the frame, rider weight and body dimensions, the aggressiveness of the rider, as well as the look of the frame.

Joining Method =  TIG weld. Fillet brazing is sometimes used at the dropouts on some frames. I use the method that I believe has the most functional application for a given frame and its parts, but also adds a bit of an aesthetic touch to the final product.

Rigid Forks = I build ‘sleeved’ or non-sleeved segmented forks (Yo Eddy-style) for any size tire – Fatbike, 29-Plus, 27.5, whatever.  I also build custom lugged cyclocross or All-Rounder/Monstercross style forks, and lugged crown cyclocross forks.

Paint = If you would like custom wet-paint I’ll work with you to find a painter.  I believe Powdercoating offers the best protection for steel off-road frames at a reasonable price so I prefer that method on my steel mountain and cross bikes.  Each frame will come coated internally with Frame Saver to reduce the chance of rust. However you should continue application every couple of years.

Warranty = Lifetime warranty for the original purchaser:  I guarantee my craftsmanship and will fix any issue resulting from my work free of charge.  I do not warranty issues resulting from parts that were put on a bike that weren’t meant for the bike as designed, or that cause abnormal wear and tear.  For example, if you were to put a dual crown 160mm travel suspension fork on a frame built to only accept a 120mm suspension fork I would not warranty the frame if it broke.  But I will work with you to fix any issues that arise.  Warranties will be on a case-by-case basis and I will do my best to be as up front and fair — as I’d expect if I were in your position. As you can see, I intend to create the best custom frames I can so that you will have something that you are proud to ride, tour, shoulder, carry, and explore with for as long as you choose.

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