Got lots done today in the shop. Mitered the top tube to size. Since I’m using a 28.6 seat tube to allow more room for the short chainstays, and the tubeset I have from Henry James came with a 35mm top tube, I created my first seat tube sleeve. The 1.125″ seat tube left a lot of gap on the 35mm top tube without the sleeve, and since that’s a big size difference – I don’t like denting the fishmouth to get it to fit better – a sleeve made sense, and it looks f’ing cool. I totally copied Coconino’s design on this because it’s pretty straightforward and I had some 1.25″ diameter tube lying around. This should be one pretty hefty stiff frame with the big downtube and top tube. Great for a rigid singlespeed!
This is my ghetto chainstay dimpler press. I rounded out an oak tube block that I wasn’t using and it works pretty good. It’s hard to get exactly the same dimple on each side but with counting rotations (6pm to 3pm/270 degrees) it comes pretty close. I really should’ve turned around the square block so it’d cradle the tube better and not flatten the outside of the tube as much…there’s always next time. Plus, I think I’ll need to shave off some of the block since it’s the stay would be too deep in there to get any dimple at all. I learn something new every time I work on a bike. Today, I learned that I should have dimpled the stays BEFORE mitering them for the bottom bracket. Duh. But I’m not sure how they will fit in the Sputnik tube blocks after being dimpled…hmm. It didn’t mess up the fit too bad at all, although it did create a little gap between the inside miter and the bottom bracket. Nothing a few swipes with the file couldn’t fix.
Like my chainstay support beam? Yes, that’s a PVC 2-3″ plumbing fitting trying to mimic tire size for an mtb. It kinda works (ok…not really) but I need to find another way to get the stays to stay in there and not fall out while messing around with other things!
My first rear hooded dropouts! They’re Paragon ‘track’ dropouts – the same ones i used on my adjustable rake fork. Super simple and beefy. I like hooded dropouts since you weld the stays to the dropouts and I believe it creates a stiffer rear triangle (everyone has their own thoughts on this though). They’re pretty easy to miter for too. I put the stays in a tube block and cut with a 1.5″ hole saw and fine tuned it with the file. But that was really overkill. A rough cut and then a few minutes with a file would’ve been just as fast. The hooded dropouts were less effort for me to do than slotted dropouts and I like the look better too.
Hope to tack and weld the rest of the front triangle today and get this frame done before next weekend to ride!