Working when I can on Timmy’s frame. Headed down to my Dad’s (both of them – step and real) for Dad’s day last weekend so didn’t get any shop time in for a few days. I’ve been fighting a weird bug as well that took me out of commission for a couple of weeks. Brutal. No riding and only a few hours in the shop since the full body fatigue and night sweats were beating me down. It’s the first time i have been sick in years — literally YEARS. Must be the California microbial community’s Welcoming Committee. “Welcome to California, not take THAT!”
Here’s some random shots from the build. Got the slotting of the stays dead on…no slop at all which is sweet for brazing the stainless sliders with silver. I’m getting used to slotting on the horizontal using the MTMFixture. It’s SO clean and fast and keeps it all in phase with no effort at all. I feel like I’m cheating not using the hacksaw but I still have to file to fit after i tear out the tongs. The reason I don’t use a wider slotting saw is because I found out the hard way that not all Paragon tab dropouts are 6mm thick. Rocker dropouts are 4mm at the tab and the rest of the Paragon offerings that I’ve used (Sliders, others) are 5mm. I also can’t find a slotting saw with as high a tooth count as these Malco’s that cut SO smooth and with no snagging. I am going to try to find or make some spacers that I can put in between the paired saws and space them right for the dropouts, but this is really pretty easy as is. I just measure how far i want the slot from one side (10 degree cut per the rotary table), cut one time to 12mm deep, and then move the Y-axis feed 3 or 4mm (gotta account for the blade width) to get the right sized slot. Rip out the tong with the needle-nose pliers and start filing. I recently ‘retired’ a couple of flat files by filing them down on the disc sander (Paterek’s idea) – one is smooth on the sides so I can file the sides of the slot without making a deeper cut; one is smooth on the faces so I can file a deeper slot without accidentally taking some off the sides. Yes, totally unnecessary but really nice to have the option.
I also got around to drilling and sticking two internal brass tubes in the bent top tube. It was a total beeyatch to get the second one through. The trick I learned was to get some old brake cable housing and run it through the brass housing so you can first feed the flexible brake housing through the other end of the top tube and basically guide the brass housing up and out the hole. Takes some doing in a bent tube because of the resistance (good luck pre-bending two to fit in a bent 31.8 top tube…) but it works. The rear brake and rear derailleur cables will go in the left side of the top tube and out opposite sides just before the seat tube. Then they’ll be routed externally down the underside of the seatstays.