I usually post only my better weld shots but on this front triangle, they all turned out pretty good! Again, no pulser and no foot pulsing either except on the hard to see acute angled joints like the ST/BB/DT and the bottom side of the DT. It’s habit, not needed, but I like how you can’t tell the difference by sight anymore between my regular and foot-pulsed welds.
It’s weird, for the last several frames I have had the machine set at 64 amps and have varied input amps with the foot pedal, like is usual. But for this frame and the last I had the foot pedal pretty much floored much of the time and was just moving faster along the joint. I’m using 0.035″ weldmold rod instead of the 1/16″ that I used to use, and I definitely feel better with the results. The welds are more smoother, not seemingly cold or bumpy or raised at all. The use of my Sputnik heatsinks helps with managing the heat, but really I used the same amps last frame without heat sinks! My crappy home-made sinks barely did anything, really happy with the ones from Sputnik. I’ll have to post pics of them sometime.
The frame alignment conundrum continues though. These are my best, most even heat input welds to date, and I’m still not where I want to be with alignment. I’ve decided to trust the Bringheli C-channel alignment “table.” I have no choice in the matter really…and it’s gotta be damn close to flat! There are too many variables to control if/when using the frame fixture for alignment checks. With this frame, the seat tube was spot on straight. Phew! But there was a bit of head tube twist that is just not OK. I’ll have to stew over this awhile…I may need to re-think my welding sequence since this has happened the last two frames.