I used the Nova 7 degree offset fork crown for this fork. I dig this look and it’s still pretty light and stiff (1.9lbs/880 grams with a whopping 11″ of steerer left). The crown is drilled out to accept a ‘fork crown cable hanger‘ to reduce brake and fork chatter when slamming on the brakes. I brazed in a threaded nut (wtf is that thing called anyhow?) for use of the 5mm bolt on the cable hanger. (BTW, the 7 degree offset means there is 48mm of offset/rake on a fork with 395mm axle to crown length — I had to do some MATH to get that dude!) It doesn’t tell you that since forks can be made in different lengths but mostly all cross forks are 395.
The dropouts are Paragon tabs and very simple, no lawyer tabs so quick to swap wheels during a race if need. Of course, most people file them off but these come sans tabs. I used the hacksaw method to get the slots, then fixtured it up to do some last file fitting before brazing. The brass brazing of the legs to the dropouts went nicely, I feel like I finally know what I’m doing now. I did the tacking in the fork fixture to make sure it was all aligned right and finished brazing in the bike stand so I could rotate it around easier. After a soak, the legs got emery-cloth’d smooth around the dropouts and loaded into the fixture with the fork crown now attached to the steerer. The legs did need some reshaping to slide into the crown easier and I did that with a quick clamp in the vise or two. I sanded the inside of the crown out too with a small 1/2″ sander roll (from my Dremel kit) and that made it nice and grippy for the brazing and cleaned off that cast finish. Once fluxed, I got to sweating the crown and legs. Isn’t that what the cool guys call it? I’m pretty lame, so I probably say things wrongly a ton and you all just laugh. But yes, the silver brazing is coming along. My shorelines weren’t as flooded this time except for one spot – the point. I kept trying to add just enough to get the sharp tip perfect but it ended up pooling in the little crown ‘window’ a little. My torch heat control is much improved and I’m burning much less flux and not adding as much silver. (I use a Victor zero tip on my mini torch for silver and a #1 for brass. Sometimes a #2 if it’s a rear dropout braze.) Anyways, the fork turned out pretty nicely! Should look sweet on the frame all painted up.